Please Say No to Palm Oil

Palm oil from the oil palm tree is a high quality versatile oil.  However, it grows only in the tropics where it has had a disastrous effect on the environment.  According to the environmental group Friends of the Earth, it is estimated that 87 percent of Malaysia’s deforestation was due to palm oil plantations.  Their researchers also estimated that if nothing is done to alleviate the rising rates of deforestation, orangutans could become extinct within 12 years.  The palm oil trade is destroying orangutan habitats, endangering other rain forest animals, contributing to the high levels of carbon emissions, and has placed Indonesia as possibly having the world’s fastest deforestation rate (Greenpeace sources estimate an area equivalent to 300 soccer fields per hour).  And according the the World Wildlife Fund "Large areas of tropical forests and other ecosystems with high conservation values have been cleared to make room for vast monoculture oil palm plantations – destroying critical habitat for many endangered species, including rhinos, elephants and tigers. In some cases, the expansion of plantations has lead to the eviction of forest-dwelling peoples."

In 2004 The World Wildlife Federation and teamed up with the Palm Oil Industry and launched RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil).  Many manufacturers especially small companies proudly state they are using sustainable Palm Oil, however, this is not as benign as many of them think because the rules are riddled with loopholes. 

The environmental groups Greenpeace International and Wetlands International argue that such loopholes allows palm oil firms to join RSPO and improve their image despite the fact that very little palm oil has yet been produced according to the sustainability criteria. And The Jakarta-based Center for Orangutan Protection has directly opposed the certification scheme. The group said last year that it found two RSPO member companies clear-cutting forests that were home to orangutans, sun bears, and Borneo gibbons. "It has been six years after RSPO was put into operation but forests are still cleared and orangutans are continually killed," said Novi Hardianto, the Center's habitat program coordinator, in a press release. "All criteria on sustainable palm oil and certification process are merely public lies."

Because of it's versatility, Palm oil is used in so many products, ranging from margarine, cereals, sweets and baked goods, to soaps, washing powders and cosmetics. (If you are a vegan and use products by Earth Balance beware that they use Palm Oil in many of their products.) And you have to practice due diligence if this concerns you, because often times it is listed as an ingredient on product labels, with the term ‘vegetable oil’ often being used instead.

So, please practice consumer awareness and I hope that the next time you are shopping think about who and what will be affected by that product. 

Why A Facial?

If you have never had a facial you may be wondering why should you get one.  You may think that is a luxury, it isn't important.  But did you know your  skin is the largest organ in the body?. Healthy skin is slightly moist, soft and flexible and is free from blemishes and disease. The skin protects the body from bacterial invasion. Proper nutrition and exercise is important for healthy skin, as well as overall good health. Our health and how we take care of our bodies is reflected in our skin.

facial massage

The benefit of receiving facials on a regular basis goes far beyond relaxation. Facials naturally slow down aging by stimulating collagen production, increasing circulation and removing dead skin. Removing the dead skin buildup allows the penetration of serums, masks and moisturizers to be more effective. In addition the skin will look brighter and will help rid any congestion. The facial massage you receive helps to relax the senses, nerves and muscles of the face to reduce the visible effects of stress. In addition, the massage stimulates the blood flow to aid oxygen and other nutrients to the skin and its underlying tissue and help in the efficient removal of waste products. Massage also helps maintain the tone of the underlying muscle, therefore preventing sagging and lines from forming. A facial can restore the normal balance of oil and pH for the skin, refining the texture of the skin.

treatment mask

Last but not least you will learn how to take care of your skin at home.  The best products to use for your skin.  Remember as in my previous post, your skin condition is unique to you.  What your friend uses may not be right for your skin.  And your skin changes: seasonally, through diet, hormonally, etc.

So do yourself and your skin a favor and schedule a facial, you will love it.

Why DIY Skin Care Can Be A Problem

I am sure this blog post will not be very popular with many of you, but I feel it has to be said.  With blogging becoming more and more prevalent, so many bloggers think they are experts.   Just because you read somewhere that some treatment, ingredient or DIY product is fabulous, does not make it so.  Even if it works great for you, it does not mean it will for everyone else.  Skin care is NOT "one size fits all."

While I am doing research for new formulas for my skin care line or reading a post on one of my facebook groups I seem to constantly come across some article recommending this or that to help your skin look better.   Some suggestions are fairly benign but some are downright wrong and in some cases even harmful.

There is science behind developing skin care products and skin care treatments.  Even natural and organic products.  It involves understanding chemistry, biology and anatomy.  It involves research and development.  Most importantly it involves knowing about the skin and how ingredients effect the skin and every skin conditions.   So while an oil like avocado oil or, even using an avocado, may be wonderful for dry skin it is not something to be used on an oily skin. 

The latest craze that has me in a spin is the recommendation for using baking soda as an exfoliant and then following with vinegar thinking the vinegar will bring the pH back to balance.  If you  remember your high school chemistry, then you will recall that on the  pH scale works  1 is acidic, and 14 is alkaline. Things are either acidic or alkaline based on where they fall  on that scale, except  7 which is neutral. Skin  has a pH of 5- 5.7.  An alpha hydroxy acid most commonly used as an exfoliant  is generally around 3.5-4 .  Baking soda is a 9, and the average Vinegar  is 2.5-3.  So what does this mean?  If an ingredient is too alkaline (baking soda) the skin barrier is disrupted or damaged, too acidic (vinegar) and you risk burns. Doing this you have disrupted the natural acid mantle (affecting the skin barrier) This weakens the skin’s immune system,  can cause inflammatory skin diseases and conditions such as acne and dehydrated skin. It most commonly leads to the dry/acne or dry/oily combo that is so frustrating. The longer you use it, the more damage it does to your skin.  

Vinegar and baking soda are household chemicals and they are not safer just because they are not in a bottle in the skincare aisle. Baking soda can be remove stains on enamel (like your bathtub and toilet)  and vinegar is used to remove lime deposits in your coffee maker or use as a all purpose household cleaner.

Some things are better left to the experts.  There is a reason Estheticians go to school and are licensed by the state to care for skin.  So I suggest sticking with the professional products.  While I love to find my own recipes to cook and tips for gardening or house cleaning, it is too easy to become misinformed or misuse a product when it come to your health and after all your skin is your largest organ.

Taking Care Of Your Skin in the Summer

Summer is usually a busy time for us. Many people take their vacations during this time and we also tend to be out and about more.  Because of our crazy, hectic, having fun schedules we are more prone to neglect our skin. Yes, more and more people are remembering to use sunscreen but summer skin care is more than just applying sun protection.

The first thing to consider is your home care regime.  Are you using the same products you do in the winter?  For some of us that is fine, our skin doesn't really change much seasonally.  However,  many people need to switch their skin care products for lighter weight cleansers and moisturizers.  That creamy cleanser that was perfect in January may not be what you need in July. If you are feeling a bit more oily you may need a gel or foaming cleanser.  Renew Botanicals has a cleanser that is a little of both.  Our Herbal Cleanser has some of the ingredients and properties of a gel cleanser but with additional oils so that your skin does not feel dry.  The addition of activated charcoal helps to detoxify the skin.  Same idea holds true for your  moisturizer.  Your current moisturizer may still be perfect but just as with your cleanser you may need a moisturizer that is a little lighter.  You still need to use your moisturizer twice a day.  If you are feeling too oily do not stop using a moisturizer, this is a mistake many make.  Your skin can still become dehydrated in the summer.  Just lighten it up.

Speaking of dehydration.  It is so important to drink lots of water during the summer.  Remember iced tea (unless it is herbal) and iced coffee will further dehydrate, you as will any alcoholic beverages.

Don't forget to take your skin care products with you on vacation.  It is also a great idea when you get back from vacation to see your Esthetician for a facial.  It is a great way to replenish your skin.  And don't forget keep applying your sunscreen.

Enjoy!

Is There a Difference In Skin Care Products?

Very often I hear the question is there really a difference between skin care products sold in stores or by estheticians? You may have heard or read reports from beauty editors that there is no difference. I am here to set the record straight. YES, there is a difference! We begin by looking at what factors may determine the cost of a product.

Concentration of active ingredients such as vitamins/anti-oxidants, minerals, essential oils; production costs, advertising and packaging. Let's take a closer look. Drug store brands usually contain lower amounts of active ingredients and are primarily made up of water and fillers. That is how they keep the prices so low. Department store brands have a higher percentage of active ingredients, however, they spend a lot on packaging and advertising, which is passed on to the consumer. When you purchase products from a department store, salespeople with no skin care experience are making the recommendations. Do I need to spend $100 on a moisturizer to have it work, you may ask? The answer is NO. If a manufacturer is adding ingredients of the highest quality and the price of the cream is between $30 and $50, than what would justify another cream selling for $100? The $50 cream has the highest quality ingredients, right? It comes down to packaging, gimmicks, name recognition, and celebrity endorsements. The only exception is when you are purchasing serums, eye creams and specialty products. However, even these should never exceed $100.

In addition, you should always look for products that have no synthetic, toxic ingredients. A natural organic product that uses high quality ingredients should not have to carry a higher price tag than a high quality toxic product.

Professional skin care products contain the highest percentage of active ingredients that are available without a prescription. Therefore, these professional products will be able to treat the skin more effectively. More importantly, the products you purchase from your esthetician will be the correct products for your skin type. There is no guessing or chance of purchasing the wrong product.

Important Things you Should Know Before Going Out in the Sun

Summer officially starts in a couple of weeks but you already may be hitting the beach or the pool.  We hear over and over again how important sun protection is but many of us ignore the warnings.  If you are trying to prevent aging (and who of us isn't?) or more importantly

prevent skin cancer (which is on the rise)  than you must wear sunscreen. 

 

The latest scientific studies tell us that we need a broad spectrum sunscreen.  Most sunscreens in the market protect you from UVB rays.  UVB rays are only partially absorbed by the ozone.  These rays are responsible for causing harmful sunburns and are most dangerous between 10 am and 4 pm.  However, most of the rays that reach the earth are UVA rays.  The UVA rays are present sunrise to sunset and penetrate the skin much deeper. UVA rays can cause free radical damage causing the breakdown of collagen which leads to wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and aging skin.  UVA rays can penetrate through light clothing, cloud cover and untinted glass.   Both UVA and UVB can cause skin cancer.  SPF only protects against UVB.  The only safe ingredient to protect against both UVA and UV is zinc oxide.  According the Environmental Working Group many sunscreen products contain oxybenzone which is a hormone disrupter.  It is also an ingredient that many find causes rashes, breakouts and other skin problems.  The addition of green tea, which is rich in antioxidants is beneficial in fighting free radical damage.  Did you know that lip cancer is most common on the bottom lip where sun exposure is the most direct?  So it important to protect your lips as well.

The American Cancer Society advises putting sunscreen on 30 minutes before you go outside and repeat every two hours.  This is where most people make a mistake.  Applying once a day will not protect you all day.  And apply generously.

So please make sure you are wearing enough of the right protection. As they say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

June Flowers Herbs and Skin Care

As the old song goes "June is Busting Out all Over"  and it is with two of my favorite flowers/herbs for skin care.

CALENDULA

My all time favorite herb, Calendula (Calendula officinalis) is the Herb Society of America's herb of the month.  Calendula is used in skin care for it's anti-inflammatory properties. According to the University of Maryland Medical Center Calendula has high amounts of flavonoids, plant-based antioxidants that protect cells from being damaged by unstable molecules called free radicals. Calendula appears to fight inflammation, viruses, and bacteria. Also great for skin rashes.  It addition it improves hydration and may help firm the skin.  I make an oil infused with the Calendula Petals or an alcohol based tincture and then add one or both to most of my Renew Botanical skin care products.  In addition to the healing properties, the addition of the infused oil add a beautiful pale golden yellow color to my products.

ROSE

Aside from being considered one of the most beautiful flowers with a heavenly aroma, the rose has many therapeutic benefits for the skin.  Whether using the essential oils or rose water most skin types can benefit from the queen of the flowers.  The natural oils found in the rose help retain moisture.  I use rose oil in my blends for Renew Botanicals Hydrating Cream and the Hydrating and Rejuvenating Cream.  Even sensitive skin can benefit from rose oil and rose water due to the high sugar content which is very soothing.  Because of it high antibacterial properties it can be beneficial to some types of acne.  A spritz of rose water on the skin is also very refreshing.  Keep in in the fridge and use on a hot summer day. In addition to skin benefits, the scent of rose oil can be uplifting and is said to help those grieving.  For many it is a favorite in perfume blends but only the pure essential oil...many find synthetic rose fragrance overpowering and can give you a headache.  My favorite flower water is blending rose, rose geranium, chamomile and lemon balm. 

Keep in mind that the essential oil that is steamed distilled is referred to as Rose Otto and has a light fragrance.  The Rose Absolute which is solvent extracted and best used for perfumes has a deeper aroma and needs to be well diluted.

If you haven't I hope you try some products that use these wonderful plants.